EDITORIAL VIA: VOGUE.COM – PARIS – JULY 3, 2018
WRITTEN by STEFF YOTKA
The women who wear Zuhair Murad are an international bunch, inhabiting the poshest spots from Abu Dhabi to St. Petersburg to Ibiza. For Resort, Murad looked to the spirit of travel, but with the twist of focusing specifically on end-of-the-19th-century journeys to the French East Indies. A niche reference, for sure, it led the designer to the work of Paul Gauguin, the post-impressionist painter whose Tahitian period produced some of the most famous, if not most fraught, paintings of the 1890s.
Where Gauguin made an obvious impact was on the palette: Vibrant marigold, rich azure, and a delicately feminine pink played counterpoint to his standard black, white, and barely there blush. The Tahitian spirit also birthed a recurring hibiscus motif that splashed the designer’s body-conscious and sometimes too-serious silhouettes with a little bit of fun.
More so than color or pattern, however, the biggest shift in Murad’s Resort offering was its move away from the vixenish “naked dresses” and flirty, miniskirted looks he’s known for. Here, he traded gowns for a sleek nautical jumpsuit with a flared hem; a fit-and-flare knit dress in an abstract butterfly pattern; and sharp-shouldered blazers and cigarette pants that have the potential to turn new women into Zuhair Murad converts.